...Just back from
Kenya
Ben returns to Kenya to find an infusion of vivid landscapes, colourful tribes and documentary-quality wildlife which make this African country a charming favourite. With so many contrasting regions to explore it is well worth a visit.
Having explored Kenya extensively many times since his first visit in the mid-1990s, Ben recently returned to unearth yet more magical locations and extraordinary experiences. On the Tanzanian border, he found otherworldly soda lakes teeming with flamingos, revisited the Mara Conservancies to see thousands of zebra across the plains and found himself falling in love with a horse called Gypsy on the Laikipia Plateau.
“I found being back in Kenya like visiting a dear old friend, immediately welcoming and familiar but with plenty of new stories to share and endless adventures to embark upon. The wildlife is arguably better than ever, the landscapes are dazzling and new camps have opened up previously unexplored regions. Even if you’ve been before – I recommend a revisit - there is so much more to Kenya than first meets the eye.”
Ben Oxley-Brown
Personal Travel Designer
01488 689700 Ben.Oxley-Brown@baileyrobinson.com Read Ben’s profile
WHAT TO DO
Kenya has ripped up the rule book on what a safari should look like. The era of two fixed game drives per day has been eschewed in favour of immersive experiences. Parts of the country are a natural playground with waterfalls to jump off and rivers to kayak, swim and fish. Exploring on horseback or by camel opens up whole new terrain at a different pace. Walking safaris enable you to get far from other humans and to find vistas that the box tickers will never find.
TIMELESS LANDSCAPES
Standing on the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley with views across soda lakes to the Ngorongoro Highlands in neighbouring Tanzania, I was gazing at a land that has been forged by millennia of tectonic movement and volcanic upheaval. Ancient burial sites reveal the earliest of human ancestors and yet nearby are the lush green open plains of the Serengeti. To the north against the backdrop of Mount Kenya are the Loldaiga Hills, rocky orange outcrops above the Laikipia Plateau, this is a more arid land where the Ewaso River nourishes the wildlife and the nomadic tribes which pass through.
With Kenya effectively being divided in half by the equator, the country has an embarrassment of biomes. Every type of vegetation can be found explaining the diversity of wildlife – from glacial meltwaters and high mountains to the arid deserts in the far north and then the open plains to a tropical coastline, Kenya packs a hefty punch within a fairly concise area.
A highlight of this recent trip to Kenya was spending a fascinating evening with a Maasai family as the herders returned to the homestead with hundreds of goats and then later on as the sun was setting, the cattle.
During the day the boma is quiet, a few goat kids and some of the women go about their daily lives whilst the men are out with the animals, walking them daily to find good grazing and then onto the river to drink.
To be in the homestead as all arrived home was an assault on the senses, the cattle kicked up dust and the bleating of the goats and the bells of the cattle drown out the previous silence.
“Time spent with these ancient tribes gives an insight into the connection between the land, wildlife and their daily lives and customs.”
ACCOMMODATION HIGHLIGHTS
OFFBEAT MARA
One of the original luxury tented camps in the Mara North Conservancy set amongst a small grove of trees and seconds from some of the finest wildlife viewing in the world. So engrained into the landscape, the local pride of lions is known as the Offbeat pride and the guides here know every inch of the terrain. The camp is stylish with all the comfort you couple possibly want, a team headed by the vivacious Jennifer look after you incredibly well and with only a handful of tents, the attention to detail for guests is superb.
Must do
Sundowner drinks, overlooking the Mara North conservancy is the most wonderful way to round off a day of safari, perhaps listening to the eponymous Offbeat lions calling across the savannah with an ice cold drink in hand. The sunsets are mesmerising.
SHOMPOLE WILDERNESS
An enclave of calm overlooking a beautiful river flowing through the heart of Maasailand in the south of Kenya, Shompole Wilderness is an exclusive-use lodge.
Instantly welcoming and offering a highly personalised service, a day at Shompole could include anything from tubing the river, walking with the Masaii, flying over pink lakes and flamingos plus of course day and night drives. The camp itself also has a pool and animal-spotting hide, and evenings are for enjoying chef-prepared meals from the camp kitchen.
Must do
Make time to spend an early morning or evening in Shompole’s hide, which overlooks a watering hole. With a remotely operated lighting rig and sound insulation, the ground level hide is an incredible place to spot bird and game coming for a drink at the water’s edge.
LENTORRE LODGE
Located on the side of a hill in the Olkirimatian Conservancy in Kenya’s South Rift Valley, Lentorre Lodge is owned by the local Masai community. Bringing rustic-luxe to the wilderness, Lentorre has six beautifully crafted villas, each with their own plunge pool and epic, uninterrupted views over to the Shompole mountain. Here it’s easy to immerse yourself in the environment from dawn until dusk – walk with baboons, visit a Masai village, float down the river, take a safari as the sun sets, then gaze in wonder at the stars overhead, using the camp’s telescope the bring the night sky into focus.
Must do
Nearby to Lentorre are two of the largest soda lakes in the Rift Valley. Either by road or helicopter, admire the extraordinary, swirled colours of the alkaline lakes and their resident flamingos.
Offbeat Ndoto
Just four tents share this hidden valley in the heart of the Mara North Conservancy. The area has such prolific wildlife that the local lion pride is named the Offbeat pride and as the migration rolls into the area, the predators do extremely well. Offbeat has been honing its safari hospitality skills for years and the latest addition to their small portfolio is testament to that. Expect exceptional game viewing, a wonderful small camp atmosphere and the feeling of being in the middle of the action.
Must do
The early morning starts on safari are incredibly rewarding, the big cats prefer hunting in the cool of the day and this is when the most action takes place. On the plains close to camp, cheetah often wait to ambush their prey at high speed so it is well worth keeping an eye on them first thing.
The review
Arijiju Retreat
A sensational private-hire house hewn into a hillside of Laikipia’s Borana Conservancy, Arijiju is an architectural hideaway with views to Mount Kenya.
Booking with Bailey Robinson means access to the finest travel experiences. When planning your holiday we do all the hard work – in-depth research and meticulous organisation. You can be confident in the individual care for your holiday from your dedicated and experienced Personal Travel Designer and Concierge.
The review
Serian Ngare – Kenya
Insight
The Great Migration – When & Where
